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Jewellery Chain Glossary (Five)

Here is a tutorial of introducing you the meaning of different kinds of jewelry chain. Hope you will continue reading it!


Marine chain is a classic jewellery chain design and the chain most people can describe with ease. It is characterised by uniformly sized repeating oval links which are arranged alternatively in a horizontal and then vertical orientation, traditionally with a vertical bar in the middle of each link. Because of the simplicity of its links it is one of the strongest types of jewellery chain and it is no surprise that it has the same design as the chains used to anchor large ships in port. This chain is also known as anchor chain. Variations of this chain design include figarucci chain or flat anchor chainwhere the outer surfaces of the individual links are flattened off by diamond cutting, round anchor chain where the outer surfaces are slightly rounded and maritime chain where only every other link is an anchor link.


Marquis chain derives its name from a fancy cut of gemstone, typically a diamond fashioned into an elongated oval shape with pointed ends. This design is believed to have been named after the Marquise de Pompadour who was the mistress of Louis XIV. The chain design follows the same elongated oval shape as the gemstone cut, with a simple join between links to maintain this chains clean lines.

Jewellery Chain Glossary - Marquis Chain


Mesh chain has a fabric like quality with very fine wire used to weave the chain. There are a number of production methods including Milanese mesh chain and stocking mesh chain. The first is produced by weaving wire into tubular or flat profiles whilst the second is produced using a knitting process with needles generating a continuous and seamless tube of mesh chain in the same way stockings used to be made. These chains tend to be wider than normal jewellery chains, often being four or more links wide.


Nugget chain starts life as a standard serpentine chain which is then soldered and hammered into an interlocking ‘s’ design, before being twisted to create the appearance of a nugget. This chain is also known as tinsel chain and twisted serpentine chain.

Jewellery Chain Glossary - Nugget Chain


Omega chain is a wide chain distinguished from other chains by the structure of its links or plates. Small individual metal plates are aligned next to one another and crimped to an underlying mesh substructure. This type of chain is popular for its overall strength and its reflective qualities as the chains texture makes it extremely shiny. This chain design is traditionally flat in profile although rounded variations of the chain can be found. They can also be reversible.

Jewellery Chain Glossary - Omega Chain


Open link chains are chains which do not benefit from the addition of solder to the link joint, and subsequently the individual links can be opened like a jump ring, which in itself has benefits. When using unsoldered chains it is important to ensure that the chain selected is substantial enough to cope with the weight of the design and the vigors of day to day wear without stretching or breaking.


Panther chain is a flat chain with a surface design that resembles three rectangular paving bricks lying above each other with the centre brick offset one half brick to the side. The offset brick is then connected to the space left by the offset brick on the next link in the chain using a pin. These bricks can also be rhombus shaped like the diamond in a deck of playing cards.


Parallel chain is based on a cable chain or a curb chain but instead of a repeating pattern of single links it consists of a repeating pattern with two links lying parallel to each other linking directly to a second set of links lying in parallel. A variation of this chain style is known as double link chain.


Peanut chain is a good example of a fancy chain with an attractive wavy link design. This particular design of chain is also known as crinkle chain.

Jewellery Chain Glossary - Peanut Chain


Pelline Chain is composed of spheres of metal rather than open links. These spheres or balls can be solid or hollow to reduce weight. They can be fixed at regular intervals along the length of the chain with connector bars, or placed immediately adjacent to each other. This chain typically has it own snap fastening, with the larger steel versions of this chain more often used to hold ID cards than for jewellery. This type of jewellery making chain is also known as ball chain and bead chain.